Address – Modifications

The Alarm

The Address would be quite easy to steal.  Two or more strong blokes could easily lift it into a van even if the steering and the wheels were locked.

I have a chain to lock to a lamppost or similar, but its a hassle to look for a suitable fixed pole to lock it to.

I fitted my old Blue fire alarm.  I only need the vibration sensor so, other than the battery there are no electrical connections.
It is mounted by double side tape to the bulkhead under the front fairing.

Update I don’t use either of these now

The Charger connection

The alarm takes a quiescent current of about 4mA.  Not much – but that is 1AH in 10 days and 3AH in a month. 
It’s possible that the Suzi could be sitting for a month or more in winter. It only has a 6AH battery so that would take it to half charge. That is really bad news for a lead acid battery. To be fair Suzuki recommend charging the battery if it is left for a month.  But when the ignition is off drain current is zero.

So I fitted a simple socket to connect a battery charger without having to disassemble anything.

My Ctek adaptor plugs into it to give a quick check on the battery condition and also converts the connector to suit the charger.
The socket is connected across the battery via a 15A fuse. The high value fuse is so that I can connect my electric pump if I need to.
I brought it through the hole in the bulkhead which is meant for checking the brake fluid level.

Handlebar Muffs

For the winter I have mounted my Urban Tucanno muffs, which also have been fitted on quite a few bikes. 

Phone mount and USB supply

I also fitted a phone mount with a USB supply.  The USB has a switch so that it will not drain the battery when left.

Update – I removed it.  The vibration was quite bad.

Update – I replaced it, but removed the ball and socket mount.  I is now rock-solid with no vibration.

A clock

I just like to know the time when I’m driving and I don’t usually have the phone mounted. I bought a very cheap motorcycle clock meant for handlebar mounting, but simply attached it by double side tape to the handlebar fairing. By lucky chance I can see my clock through the transparent window in the muffs when fitted.

Top box

I fitted my old 45 litre Givi top box which I have had for around 20 years.  It has been on multiple other bikes. It takes two helmets or lots of shopping.

Extra Fuel

I have a 2.5 litre container and a 5 litre container, either of which will fit under the seat.  But under the seat gets quite warm, so it’s not the best place. Also I noticed that if I put the 2.5 litre one under the seat I can smell petrol when I open the seat – even when the scooter has just been sitting in the garage! I think the plastic may be porous to petrol fumes.

From fill to redzone is around 90 miles solo and 75 miles two up. I then have 40-45 miles left when the fuel gauge enters the red zone and an estimated 20 miles when the tank shows empty. (Coincidentally, this is the same distance my BMW does on reserve, although it does to around 200 miles from full to reserve – at 45mpg) I’d need to be quite careless, in the UK, to run out of fuel.  On a longer run I suppose I could fix either of the containers onto the footboard.


The supplied toolkit is laughable.  It comprises of a single ended cheap and nasty spark plug box spanner and a double ended screwdriver. 
The handle of the screwdriver broke as I tried to loosen and over tightened (by the factory) screw underneath the headlamp.  I have replace the handle with a BMW/Mini one which fits fine.

However I needed a small toolkit to take out with me for minor mishaps.
This comprises:-

  • The supplied 16mm spark plug spanner and JIS/flathead screwdriver (with new handle)
  • A puncture repair kit
  • An electric pump
  • A tyre pressure gauge
  • 8×10, 12×14, flat spanners
  • An adjustable spanner (which goes up to 27mm)
  • A mole wrench.
  • Some tie wraps
  • A roll of insulating tape
  • A spare headlight bulb and rear bulb.
  • A 1/4″ socket set
  • An old 1/4″ driver and tommy bar (actually a tent peg)
  • A Swiss army knife
This all fits into the nice little bag that came with the electric pump. I also always carry the Swiss Army knife in my pocket.


I may never need to use these, but I have a pair of Lomo crash bar bags which are a perfect fit when strapped together with the straps under the seat. The fuel container, and tools fit nicely in one pannier, although that puts all the weight in one side.  Anyway, these are an option for future travelling.

Anti Corrosion

I coated all the bare metal I could see in ACF 50. The retaining pin for the front brake pads, has been reported to seize in position, so I removed it, applied some copper ease and replaced it.


I replaced the 35/35W bulb with a 60/55W bulb and replaced the 5W front side lights with LEDs.  Now I find that at a tickover, the battery voltage rises very slowly on the dip beam setting indicating a positive charge.  It falls slowly on the high beam indicating a discharge. So with the 60/55W bulb power is finely balanced at tickover. I don’t spend a lot of time at tickover so at normal speeds everything works fine.

I considered swapping out the bulb for a LED H4.  These are around 30W so I’d have a spare 25W – maybe for handlebar heaters. But:-

  • Space seems a bit tight and it looks like the “better” bulbs may not fit.
  • Bulbs that look as though they might fit seem to have an inferior beam pattern
  • The 60/55 halogen seems to be OK, no signs of over heating in there
  • My handlebar muffs and my fur lined  (not motorcycling) gloves are good for down to zero degrees and I don’t ride below that.


The 60/55W bulb, charger connection, the clock, and the plate for the Givi box are now permanent features. Not a lot really.
The handlebar muffs, top box, extra fuel bottle, toolkit, and panniers can be added or removed as required.
I like the idea of it being quickly reconfigurable.

Progress 14th May 2022

I have ridden the Suzuki a good few hundred miles so far, so an update on my mods seems appropriate.

  • I don’t bother carrying the lock and chain.  I would, I guess if the bike was getting left somewhere dodgy for a few hours
  • I have disconnected the alarm.  Although the battery drain is small, it’s a small battery.  I did flatten the battery once.
  • I use the charger socket regularly
  • The handlebar muffs are essential for cold weather driving.
  • I have not yet used the phone mount.  I think it takes the eyes off the road too much I will remove it.
  • The clock died. It has been replaced by another.
  • The top box gets used all the time. 
  • I found that with the fuel container, although there are no signs of leaks, when I lifted the seat I could smell petrol.  I believe it diffuses through the plastic.  I am looking out for a metal container.
  • I don’t generally carry the toolkit, although I would on a long run
  • The panniers have yet to be used.
  • The ACF50 seems to be doing a good job.
  • The headlamp bulb is working well.

Future mods

A windscreen

I don’t want to be peering through a rain soaked screen so I need a one where I can look over the top. This means no higher than 400mm and no less than 340mm from the top of the headlight.

Puig Urban model 8474W on a Suzuki Address 110

Puig give dimensions.
The Urban model 8474W is 405mm from top to the very bottom of the screen which is slightly lower than the headlight so it would probably be OK. No protection for hands though.  Then again it will make it easy to fit the muffs.
The Trafic model is 310mm – maybe a tad low.

So if I get one it looks like the Puig Urban. Prices vary wildly. Motocard seem about the best.

But I won’t be able to reach over the handlebars to open gates etc.  Maybe if I was riding to work in all weathers (as I used to) a screen would be a great idea.  I had one fitted on the BMW for a while, and it was great for protection against wind at 70mph+ but the Address only does around 60mph and I’ve never really noticed the wind.


There are a few bits of the lighting I’d like to change to LED at some point (no rush).  The only way to find what type of fitting is used seems to be to take the existing bulbs out.

  1. The tail/stop light – I may have to make one – maybe do same time as 6 and 7 below
  2. The indicators – this will probably mean changing the flasher. They are amber, front ones fit in sideways, back ones normal
  3. I have LEDs in the sidelights, but maybe I can get brighter ones.They are T10 bulbs and face forward – not much of a reflector.
  4. The instrument lights
  5. I have a stop light in the Givi box, but it’s not connected yet. If I run the lead under the seat I will not need a waterproof connector. I an make a break out connector as it looks like standard 3 pin connectors.  Tilt the topbox back at the same time.
  6. Inside lights in the top box and under the seat would be nice. 
  7. Number plate light – same as sidelights I think.

Heated grips

Changing the headlight would mean I could have a spare 33-40Watts This would allow heated grips.  But do I need them? The handlebar muffs are pretty good.